Anthony Bourdain, writing in The New York Times today, notes, accurately and wisely, how food, dining, chefs, and writing about food are regarded by many Americans over the past decade. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/27/opinion/27bourdain-1.html
Me? I’m seeking contexts, trying to separate the yolks from the egg whites and the nuts from the shells.
Probably the biggest puzzler is: When does food–how it is grown, produced, cooked, and eaten–become transcendent and memorable rather than a simple distraction? Tony notes in his Times piece that the critic’s recollection of a childhood taste in “Ratatouille” is an epiphany. Of course, he’s right.
Perhaps in the next decade more writing and observation will capture the ways in which food, always associated with ceremony, can create mood and inspire connections between disparate souls.