Mid-week, Cambridge, Massachusetts, and it’s time once again to see what’s what in the world of food.
The biggest news, of course, was that last week in Virginia, the General Assembly approved a bill that allows people to carry concealed weapons in bars and restaurants that serve alcohol. Surprisingly, the food sections did not comment on this legislation that now makes it possible to have a beer next to a guy packing a Glock. Please, when you’re in Virginia? Don’t disagree with anyone in a bar or restaurant. Yes, Santa Claus, there is a Virginia.
Back to other pressing issues in the Wednesday Food sections:
The Boston Globe
1. A little piece on a new restaurant called, “Six Burner,” in downtown Boston. This is not affiliated with the Six Burner restaurant on 1627 W. Main Street in Richmond, Virginia where, as noted, you can carry a gun while enjoying a Viognier, 06, Barboursville Vineyards, Barboursville, VA ($38). This restaurant, in Boston, is where you can order a, “Chicken Pot Pie Spring Roll,” while unarmed. Does that food item sound good to you? If so, you may have recently been incarcerated and it could be your first meal since getting out. Next time don’t confuse the gun laws of Virginia with Massachusetts. Here it’s a mandatory one year prison term.
2. A great interview with Paula Butturini in which she touts the Italian way of cooking: “If I see a recipe with 20 ingredients, I’ll never make it. I cook more Mediterranean style, partly because while living in Italy I saw how simple great food could be. Small pieces of veal or chicken lightly sauteed with garlic and fresh herbs, a splash of wine: Done! That’s my kind of cooking.” Right. So let’s see more recipes in newspapers that reflect that sensibility. For example, in The New York Times today, Mark Bittman has a great recipe, “A dinner date with India and Spain,” with six ingredients. Chickpeas!
3. Lukewarm review of Bombay Club in Boston’s South End. The menu, as described by Devra First, the reviewer, sounds entirely too full with too many items. It’s as if a restaurant called itself Paris Club and served food from every region of Europe. The big news in the piece was this: “The Head chef Sridhar Periyasamy comes from Bukhara, a well-known hotel restaurant in Delhi.” That’s not just a well-known restaurant. It’s one of the best in the country. I’ve eaten there twice. Why not serve a similar menu? Great breads, beautiful oven-roasted meats. The best chicken, lamb, and vegetarian dishes. A real specificity of Indian cuisine. I can taste the tumeric just thinking about it.
The New York Times
1. A spectacular looking Umami Festival to be held from February 24th through March 14th all around NYC: http://www.umamifestival2010.com.
2. Nice, short piece on a cool place opening in “late summer” on 23rd & 5th to be run by Mario Batali, Joe Bastianiach, and their teams, including Dave Pasternack. Dave is a culinary genius: His food @ Esca? O-Mi-God. Deceptively simple preparations of fish!
3. Great recipe for braised short rib dumplings from Cafe Boulud.