This just in from Venice:
Il Refolo. Run by the son of the owners of Da Fiore, (the exceptional, but expensive gem), this simple and affordable place won the prize on our first night. Wow, what wine. And the pizza of truffles and a raw egg on top? I mean, c’mon, how could life be any better?
In the days ahead, it was Rialto each morning, of course, where treasure troves were found: Turbot from the northern Adriatric, filets cut from the whole fish, with a texture and flavor inimitable; filets of San Pietro; beautiful, tendril-like radicchio from Treviso; white truffle infused pasta; and, spectacular Parmiagiano, Burrata, and cured ham from Casa di Parmigiano. Same shop: One amazing white truffle.
As much as I don’t like eating in restaurants, and I don’t, the visit to Venice turned out to be quite sociable what with friends coming down from Switzerland and friends (who own the flat in Venice) stopping nearby from their home in Udine.
So we ate well.
“The Devil and the Holy Water” is an osteria near Rialto where we dined with our Swiss friends: What a wonderful room, a real tavern, and a great seasonal dish of braised lamb.
“The White Goose,” in Treviso, offered an amazing trio of dishes: Lamb livers followed by tagliatelle with a duck ragu and then braised bunny.
The winner is…
A plate of pasta with an enormous shaving of white truffles at Alle Testiere: my favorite restaurant in the city. Died and gone to heaven. My mouth, I’m told, tasted of truffles for days…