Tico: The Review

After hemming and hawing, booked a table a week ago, went last night as a four top.  Signage–TICO–a dead ringer for BABBO in lettering.   Which hints at what’s inside: Frivolity, pleasure, reinterpretation of classics, a fun dining experience. Why, I can remember years ago at Radius how Michael trolled the room, all serious in chef’s white.  Last night?  He was giddy.

OK, so the wait to get a table and the wait to get the water were problematic.  The hostesses were overwhelmed.  One person, chill in tats, kept smiling, and that was satisfying, in its way, but little progress.

Look, we all make mistakes.  Even you.  Yes, you.  The question is: How do we correct our mistakes?  Here, TICO triumphed.  A bottle of sparkling wine, a few comped apps, and we were giddy, too.

I keep reading that the food here is Central American or Mexican.  In that case, so am I.

Actually, the food is simply smart, very flavorful bar food you might find in Japan or Spain.  Strange contrasts, but Robuchon teeters between these two cuisines, too.

We had 12 appetizers.  All of them were good, and included:

BCT: A bacon kind of snack in a taco.

Crunchy edamame in a taco.

Quail with mango.

Chicken with pomegranate.

Brussels sprouts with bacon and kumquats.

Sardine cerviche.

Tuna tartare tostados.

Grilled shishoto peppers.

Chorizo risotto.

Fried sweetbreads.

All in all, a fascinating and very pleasurable experience.  Very good for Boston dining.  And…they take reservations!

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