Yesterday I spent about seven hours, in the shade, editing my book about chefs. I think the title, “Best Beach Book Ever,” may not capture its essence so now am thinking, “Best Airplane Book Ever,” which, I recognize, still falls short, but is a wee bit closer.
Meanwhile in today’s NYT a review by the estimable Pete Wells: This time on an another Italian, kind of Italian-American restaurant. Sounds so good, it makes me salivate. Folks, the trend this year and next will be beautiful Italian and Italian-American food. Plenty of that in NYC and elsewhere in the USA, but MIA in Boston–in the capital of Massachusetts? Faux French is de rigueur, or joints where the chef wants to dazzle with creativity (Cocoa infused huckleberry sauce on venison loin, anyone? Anyone?), or places where ETOH is the thing rather than the food.
Anyhow, think Italian: Ingredient driven, seasonal, simple prep, classic sauces, long braises, or stovetop cooking. The best of the food is cucina magra with notable exceptions, designed to feed big families, and screaming with love and passion. The secret? It takes little skill–except the pastas–and the best of it is based on getting the best ingredients.