We’re talking of a first course of toasted bread topped with black morels and melted raclette cheese

Next up: tiny pasta to which asparagus, a spring onion, and English peas are added.  Then some chicken stock.  Then a cup of warm milk and about a 1/3 of a pound of Gruyere from a food processor.  Stir.  Add blond morels gently.  Plate and top with grated parmigiano and black pepper.

Pretty amazing the punch these morels pack, infusing flavor in everything that comes into contact with them.  Why is it that these living things hidden in dirt have so much more powerful taste than much bigger and fattier things?