I’d booked a table at Red Rooster, but felt certain that the back story of Chef Marcus Samuelsson was far more interesting than the hagiographic and well-written one he told in his riveting and inspiring memoir, “Yes, Chef.” Besides, the menu at RR is a hodgepodge, at least as shown at Open Table. The main reason to go was to see what he was up to. I can’t say that I enjoyed Aquavit when he was there . You can see my heart wasn’t in it.
I thought of Tertulia instead; chefs I know in NYC love it. But I also wanted to return to Il Buco di Alimentari, my new favorite Italian place in town. And Esca? Well, that’s like coming home.
I also needed to choose a lunch place near Maison O because I’m meeting the chef there to discuss a book.
Wrench in the works! The review today in the NYT of Betony. Wow. Noting, “flavors clear and pure,” and nodding to Daniel Humm who trained the chef, it sounded like just my kind of place. Look, ma: No burgers, pork, or offal! A chef who writes a business plan that includes high-end ingredients: http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/28/dining/reviews/restaurant-review-betony-in-midtown.html?ref=dining&_r=0
So there you have it: Il Buco, Betony, and Esca.
Meanwhile back at the ranch: seeing “The Grandmaster” this weekend and eating at home.