Busy, busy, busy yesterday in Tokyo, walking the whole day and getting a better sense of the texture of my favorite modern city in the world. The irony of the new and even evolving architecture isn’t lost on me, it isn’t lost on many who live here, and the contrast between the inner courts or hidden spaces of old serenity and the sharp, clear, stark lines of the new buildings is spectacular.
Lots of suggestiveness: In lines and between lines, and an ongoing struggle to be part of nature.
Meanwhile, more in tune with what’s immediate: Unagi in Kanda district, drinks overlooking the imperial grounds from The Palace Hotel, a true Neapolitan pizza in a restaurant that resembled a military submarine, yakitori in Ebisu, and late night beer at Martha, a retro bar with a wall of vinyl records.
Today it’s back to Boston, and plans afoot for a return to Japan in February for stories on the seasonality of the cuisine. Snow in the country, like Tanizaki noted, has its effect.