Let’s be honest, it’s dining in that is most satisfying this time of year in a place where dining out, at least in my neighborhood, means a choice of four burger joints, six pizza places, and restaurants written in faux French handed out by college kids hoping for a decent tip on that $43 steak.

So we turn to Russo’s.  Folks, say what you like about the French, but without our Italian brothers and sisters we’d have starved here long ago.  We’re talking perfect vegetables and fruit and fresh pasta at this venerable store.  Plus poultry from D’Artagnan.

Speaking of D’Artagnan: Tonight it’s baby chicken, braised, and served up with leeks and Brussels sprouts.

Giulia, the latest and greatest Italian restaurant to ever hit Boston, is so good you can’t get in.  If you score a seat, go.  Otherwise, spend time at the stove.