We’re at The Kayotei, my favorite inn or ryokan, and although interviewing the chef and the owner and the GM about seasonality occupies time, there is still plenty of room to take cat naps throughout the day on the pristine tatami mats while lounging in yukata and reading about the storied history of jazz in Japan.

Then, of course, there are brief walks to the small village on the other side of the gorge where yesterday we had bowls of hot buckwheat noodles and cold beers, lunch for $20, including everything, and also bought small lacquerware for serving tiny amounts of food.

Lots of outdoor and indoor bathing, too.  You grunt, you submerge yourself, you think of nothing at all.  This goes on at least three to five times each day.  One feels as clean as a newborn.

Last night it was sukiyaki with a freshly whipped egg and lots of mushrooms, leeks, and mountain greens.