Arriving in a Dr. Zhivago-like snow, through various stations, below mountains and beside forests, we reached Kyoto mid-day. The city was lovely in the white although crowds showed dismay. Not a place where cold is welcome, which is surprising given the powerfully hot summers that drain energy.
A lovely meal of unagi at a hole-in-the-wall and wallets lighter by a total of $30, we strolled a department store food hall and returned with ground sansho, Ippodo tea, and grilled chicken wings.
That evening we wound up at a remote mom-and-pop chicken joint and enjoyed delicious bird and cold beer on a tatami mat. Later that same night it was an ex-pat bar–Irish Pub–in Gion.
It’s a city easy to navigate and wonderful for walking in.