OK, so in the NYT today there’s a well, deserved, glowing review of Jean Georges, which now nears two decades of first rate food, service, and ambience. Delicious, ingredient driven cuisine with significant inclusion of Thai and Japanese flavors. Pete Wells, the reviewer, notes that the chef, Jean Georges Vongerichten, uses few ingredients for each dish and does so with extreme focus such that the depth is evident. I love JG and the lesser lights within Vongerichten’s “empire,” enjoying his Alsatian bedrock and willingness to explore meaningfully. I’ve learned a lot from eating his food. Sad that he left Boston many years ago, and more recently when “Market,” closed. Just not the kind of restaurant for this town.
No, we have Alden & Harlow, which received a 3 (out of 4) star review in today’s Boston Globe. Highlight? Chicken fried rabbit. Here’s the reviewer, Devra First, on that dish: “Chicken-fried rabbit is a delicious nugget with celery, apple, blue cheese, and chile oil, like Buffalo chicken fingers for the smart set. (The downside of the fine fry job is that this might as well be chicken; it’s hard to taste the rabbit beneath the batter.)” Did you know that eating rabbit makes you part of the smart set? Anyway, even if it does, why do it when, as the reviewer notes, it tastes the same as chicken? Could it be that it’s “exotic?” I mean, imagine a dish of “Buffalo chicken fingers” that costs $14 (that’s the price of the bunny). [Rabbit retails @ $7.99 a pound.]