I’m sitting on a wooden balcony of a flat where we’ll be nearly two weeks in view of Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau. The village is Muerren and on its one main street a few passersby from China, Japan, India, England, the United States, etc. can be seen, but mostly it’s empty.
We arrived in mid-afternoon after a night in Arlesheim, a village adjacent to Basel, where we spent time with friends I’ve known my whole adult life. We talked about families, and then took a cinematic stroll through the village, where I’ve been since I was seventeen, looking at my friend’s Kindergarten, his grammar school, and the house he grew up in, which he and his brother and sister are renovating to turn into two rental apartments. The house, which is magnificent and 83 years old, is below a deciduous forest (there’s a ruin of a 700-800 year old castle there) and next to a vineyard on a sloping hill.
A dog barks. Two long waterfalls fed by glaciers catch my eye.
Muerren is far more touristic than Braunwald, but it compensates for that by having these shocking views, through being a mile high, and through its well stocked market.
Tonight it’s Norwegian salmon and crespelle stuffed with Steinpilzen and ricotta.