I’ve been coming to Bern since I was a boy and the timelessness of its architecture, especially the Nydegg, has always found a place in my heart and soul. It’s an unusual capital of an unusual country: Small in scale, overlooking the fast rushing and bright blue Aare, with long arcades of shops and cobblestones and trams. The river beach or lawn of Marzilibad, which has at times a celebratory and nude crowd, was open today, but due to the rain and cold we didn’t venture in.
We went to Bern, in fact, because it is the third day of rain and cold up here, a mile high, in Muerren, and while it remains magical and deeply soothing, my hands went numb from a four walk walk above the village yesterday.
Instead, we visited Bern. Old favorites like Ratskeller where, in Nydegg, I had a delicious Eierschwammli soup (chanterelles) followed by a farm style rosti: a fried egg atop, melted cheese, onions, and bits of bacon.
Then, after window shopping, it was time to buy underwear @ Globus.
And what better way to end a day in Bern than by having coffees at the Eichenberger near the train station. This is one of the finest coffeehouses on the planet. Bonus: Beautiful truffles in the front. We’ll have these here in Muerren after three (black) truffle filled ravioli for dinner.
Capital, I say, capital.