I went to bed after reading online an egregious slam of Boulud’s restaurant in Boston, Bar Boulud, which opened a couple of months ago. Written by the Globe’s restaurant reviewer, it was a clear sign that Bar Boulud will be gone by this time next year. What a shame. Well, that’s what happens when America’s best French born chef meets a critic who simply doesn’t know food. It leaves Boston without a single French restaurant of note.
But never mind. Happy to eat at home and on the road.
Speaking of home, I ended the year by reading, “H is for Hawk,” a work of genius by Helen Macdonald, which is about the death of her father, falconry, and T.H. White. Along with C.S. Lewis’s essay on the subject of grief, it puts me in the right place for much needed focus.
Back to food.
In contrast to a town where the aforementioned critic singles out the city’s best restaurant of 2014 as having this menu: -“Charred broccoli with squash hummus, pickled corn pancakes with shishito peppers, a stellar burger,”-today’s NYT names that city’s 10 best restaurants and what we see is focus and refinement. Batard is named #1: I’ve been three times, and it really is splendid.
Charred broccoli? I mean, really. Get a grip. A stellar burger? I would hope so for $15 for a half-pound of choice beef.
Meanwhile closer to home, let’s start the new year tonight: Salmon roe, grilled red snapper filet, raw oysters; Conghiele with fresh white truffle; pan seared, bone-in, prime, dry aged ribeye steaks (DeBragga) with cumin scented carrots and sesame seeds with spinach; pastries from Clear Flour.