Yes, it’s true, snow is falling, and I feel like I imagine a cat does watching. (Makes me think of Soseki’s, “I am a Cat.) The treetops and branches are weighted down and colors are changing within seconds. Soon it will be time to return to the hot springs, pull open the huge glass window, and allow the snow to enter the room.
Yes, this is The Kayotei, a ryokan deep in the mountains of Ishikawa, and I’ve been here the past few days. Kaiseki dinners of mountain vegetables and small grilled fish. Breakfasts of pickled roots, steamed egg custard, tofu, grilled seaweed, and small bowls of rice.
I’m nearing the end of the first draft of my book about death in a family, reading C.S. Lewis’s essay on grief, and enjoying a memoir by a Marx brother, “Harpo Speaks.” No better place than here to clear one’s head.
And of course no visit to the region would be complete without a visit to alla Contadina, a first rate Italian restaurant a short ways away, where the Japanese chef prepares delicious pizzas and pastas better than most places in Italy and the U.S.
Sad to say: Off to Kyoto this morning for three nights. Happy there, 5th visit.