Food in October

Did I just see Kim Davis, the Kentucky clerk who refused to authorize gay marriages, meeting with Pope Francis?  No, of course not: They met in secret last week so that the pope, as the representative of the catholic church, could endorse her illegal action and tell her, reportedly, to “Be strong.”

Meanwhile, in the real world, one in which theocracy is trumped–yikes–by democratic tendencies, we are seeing the new season in everything go into swing.  Not full swing, but swing.

In NYC, Anthony Bourdain is putting investors’ money where his mouth is: He is setting up a wonderful and expansive, global food court at a wide pier in Chelsea.  He will have a raft of diverse foods, which ought to expand the mind and stomach.  Compare that to the pricey, claustrophobic food hall that opened in Boston just this August.

Farm-to-table and local are basically a country club mentality: Why not instead put capital into the agriculture of developing nations where it is most needed?

In the world of dining, Gabriel Kreuther opened up his eponymous restaurant facing Bryant Park–first-rate Alsatian inspired food that for $98 for four courses, plus tidbits, is great value.  Closer to home: Andy Husbands is serving BBQ in Kendall Square.  Pork, anyone?

And from today’s lively ** review of Houseman, written by Pete Wells in the NYT, there’s this: “Until recently, Mr. Baldwin was the chef de cuisine at Prune, which gives you the same sense. Prune’s owner, Gabrielle Hamilton, was underrated as a chef for years because, I think, she never seems to invent anything in the kitchen. She isn’t big on shotgun marriages of ingredients. But she understands the pleasure, part animal and part something else, that we take from food that is direct and honest.”

I like that phrase: “shotgun marriages of ingredients.”  It describes about 80% of restaurants in a certain city.

And this, too, which in terms of ideology of course the pope cares little about:   “But she understands the pleasure, part animal and part something else, that we take from food that is direct and honest.”

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