Osaka Interlude

The 48 hours in Osaka is coming to a close.  Preparing today for a short train ride to Kyoto through Sunday.  Eastern hills visible from the 21st floor, Yodo river below.

I had only been through Osaka a couple of times before, not staying, so it was a pleasant surprise to discover its charms.

A good subway system.  Long streets on flat terrain for good urban walks.  People who seemed outgoing without being noisy.  The Kuromon Ichiba market with its many stalls.  Shinsaibashi walking street along a canal: I wonder if this was the area in the 1920’s where coffee salons and jazz clubs and dance halls took hold until shut down as anti-western sentiment and war took hold.  Shitennoji temple grounds with its funerary stones, surrounded by schools, shops, apartments and offices.

From street food on up, the food here has depth.

Kuromon Ichiba had great stalls.  Bincho, on the 7th floor of Grand front Osaka, next to JR Station, has delicious, Nagoya style (crispy, thin, sauced) unagi.  (It is next door to an outpost of Maury Rubin’s City Bakery.)  High end: La Bécasse and Kashiwara!  The former is a stunning, intimate French-Japanese restaurant, and the latter is a wonderful, hard-to-find washoku style, *** Michelin home where the menu is a remarkable and deeply memorable set of eight very small, focused, and deeply flavorful courses of fish and vegetables.

Time closing here, but the door is open for a return.

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