They say it’s cold here, locals do, 寒い, but seriously? It’s high 30’s F, and easy strolling through alleys and arcades, up and down hills, alongside canals and on bridges over the lovely river with a view of snow-capped mountains in the distance.
Yesterday, it was a long leisurely day, punctuated by research for work here, and that meant visits to a shop selling noren, another shop on a long alley of antique shops where 木版画 or moku-hanga are sold. At the latter, I picked up a pre-Meiji woodblock print of a “beauty” who stands before a screen in which dancing shadows are depicted.
Lunch at Omen: A great udon place I’ve visited many times, near the temples, and we’re talking cold beer, fried mountain potatoes, tempura udon, and kamo udon for $14 per person, inc. tax and tip. Whoa.
In the evening, met up with the very estimatable K: He took us to Rohan, a remarkable 10-seater in Gion, where very delicious small plates of vegetable dishes arrived in succession and then plates to share of chicken, beef, and fish.
Good conversation about Kawabata, Tanizaki, Mishima, John Wayne, and J.D. Salinger.
A private club with hidden whiskies followed, and then a long soak in the room’s onsen.