Snow kept falling from early evening. It continued for most of the night. Here at Mukayu, it was cozy: A ryokan with natural onsen.
The train from Kyoto stopped by woods due to snow, and was an hour late arriving. We had fried chicken from Nishiki market and cold beer to tide us over.
Mukayu means, “Nothing is everything,” which is a theme that can be applied to other ryokan. One ryokan I know has as its “slogan,” the phrase, “A return to nothingness.”
You remove clothing, wear a yukuta (cotton robe), take hot baths (I’m up to five a day), nap, and eat a breakfast and dinner chiefly vegetarian and fish. Last night it was two versions of crab for L–male and female–and fugu wrapped around winter greens for me. Net caught duck for open (stew). Broth from konbu and duck bones.
Silence, by Shusaku Endo, is by the bedside. Many Japanese read this in junior high school and high school, and it tells the story of the difficulty of Christianity taking hold in Japan. Different approaches to human suffering.