Lovely review of Benoit, Alain Ducasse’s bistro in Manhattan, which appears in today’s NYT. I’ve been a couple of times, actually interviewed Ducasse there once, and have always been charmed by the pleasures of his food. His chefs follow straightforward principles and present guests with delicious versions of classic bistro food–this is the kind of dining one could readily enjoy routinely.
So unlike the hodgepodge and noise of what is called French so many other places.
Ironic, therefore, that a chef whose celebrity is so touted has a bistro where it is the food that people come to enjoy rather than a pretense of glamour.
Closer to home, I’ve been enjoying simple miso soup made from dark, expensive miso I brought back from Japan. This earthy stuff, from Nagano, has so much depth of flavor that a tablespoon is enough for two good bowls. Last night I also made a haddock tempura and served it with Niigata rice and pickled greens from Tokyo.
On the weekend, M arrives from Yamanaka, and we’ll head over to New Deal to buy lobsters.