Back in the day, telegenic individuals who preached a religion of food didn’t make a peep about much else.
Julia Child, for example, never said a word about sustainability, how crops are grown, who harvests the crops, who’s working in restaurant kitchens, how slaughterhouses are organized, or who gets to sit at a lunch counter and who doesn’t.
Implicitly, her show was about the largesse of who she was, how she was brought up, and where she lived. So that when in her Cambridge, Massachusetts neighborhood a proposal was put forward to establish a daycare center that allowed in kids who needed financial help, she was one of the signers who said: No, not here.
Too much traffic was the argument.
Too much melanin was the reason.
These days, things are much better. You have Chefs Tom Colicchio and Mario Batali speaking out against the regime of #54. You have editors and food writers like Adam Sachs, Mitchell Davis, and J. Kenji López-Alt writing about matters that contextualize food.
The chickens have come to roost.