Not a good one, not so far. Jonathan Gold, gone. Anthony Bourdain, gone. Madeleine Kammen, gone. Of the three, only Kammen made it to old age. She was a fine cook, a good writer of cookbooks about French food, not a grandstander, not someone who was in the spotlight, and an early proponent of refinement and focus.
On a completely separate note, the prisms of food, what it is and what it means, are well defined by the silo. Similar to writing about popular music, in the early days, what’s on the page doesn’t quite capture how it got there. So as with music, the delays and relationships are absent. What’s left are textures and sounds.
Here’s another caveat: Most venues do not have budgets for writers to dine out, not at fancy or simple places, and the result is that most writers cozy up to the person serving the food. For free. Fun, up to a point, but it’s no way to live.
One reason, among many, that Gold and Bourdain had/have such credibility is that they weren’t beholden to the chefs.